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In Need

Perhaps the most sophisticated and subtle of the charms that makes this restaurant perfect is the way it gives its patrons not what they want but what they need. In an era when feature-bloated software is driven by 900-number customer “wish lines,” we could use more understanding of this distinction.

A truly fine Italian meal requires good wine, in fact, more than one good wine. The wine that is perfect with the pasta or the fish course will be lost in the intensity of duck stuffed with spinacci and orange rind. Dolci, the dessert course, will require a glass of Malvasia spumante or perhaps Brachetto. Not all diners might appreciate this as a necessity for the full enjoyment of their experience, however, and few are likely to order more than one wine with dinner.


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