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Chapter 9. The Haze-o-Matic 3000 Fog Machine: > What We're Building - Pg. 269

MAKE: PROJECTS Eccentric Cubicle After a quick pass through eBay to determine that these weensy frying pans were in fact fairly common and easy to replace if I screwed this one up, I hacksawed off the pins to a bit under ½" long, hoping to get enough clearance to be able to use crimps to connect the power leads. The Fates smiled again as the pins were revealed to be: a) Hollow and b) As crimpable as actual crimp connectors I pulled the insulative sleeves off a pair of crimps and slid them onto the power leads along with an inch or so of shrink tubing, stuffed the bare ends of the wire into the hollow pins and made with the crimpin'. The insulation sleeves and shrink tubing fit like they were supposed to, leaving me with conections that are significantly safer than they look in the Figure 09.06: It's nonstop gasket mania, courtesy of picture. Just to be sure, I gooped the pins with silicon rubber a dumpstered bicycle inner tube as well. [Figure 09.08] With the bottom half of the hotbox I can recognize the work of the Fates configured, the upper section was left to house the inlets and outlets. A quick when I see it, and they were clearly tellin' me that stainless-steel kitchen stuff was the scrap yard run left me $2 poorer and the source material of choice for this build. proud owner of a ½" to ¾" right-angled toilet shutoff valve. I grabbed a bunch of the canisters, and whatever else I could see that was round The fog juice inlet needs to be located and stainless. I dropped $12, and left with directly above the heating surface, which two bags of goodies. meant positioning the valve on the flat I attached the top of one of the can- "bottom" surface of the upper bowl. isters to the bottom of the bowl with ½" I cut rubber gaskets for the connec- Figure 09.07: Frying pan power 8-32 machine screws and drilled out the tion from the previously sacrificed inner cord socket/pin array before . . . tube, and resized the ¼" pilot hole I'd center to ¼", giving me a perfectly func- tional 1" standoff for the bowl, which you can see on the left of Figure 09.04 . I spaced out 1 / 8 " holes around the rims of the two bowls, then cut up a dumpstered bicycle inner tube into ½" strips to use as a gasket between the two bowls. The gasket stripping was attached to each bowl with contact cement, and the hole locations punched out with a heated awl. [Figure 09.06] I decided to run the power cord out through the air sup- ply conduit, which eliminated the need for one hole in the hotbox. The frying pan socket array featured a pair of 1 / 8 " x 3 / 4 " brass pins for the power, and a 5 / 16 " socket for the thermostat temperature probe. Although my frying pan mounting system worked as intended, holding the pan sol- idly mid-bowl with only the screws and wire nut standoffs actually making contact with the heat source, there was maybe 1 / 16 " clearance between the power supply pins and the wall of the bowl. Figure 09.08: . . . and after my profile reducing In context of "How the hell do I attach the power cord?" modifications. this could only be viewed as a limiting factor. [Figure 09.07] 258