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Chapter 4. Maple Mike: > The Club: Not That Thing You Clamp Onto Your Steering ... - Pg. 132

Maple Mike Figure 04.28: The handmade golf club is a tradition going back hundreds of years. They were not made like this. The Club: Not That Thing You Clamp Onto Your Steering Wheel The club is basic metalwork, nothing fancy; only three measurements you need to get right, and you're doing it in brass, so the material won't be fighting you to any great extent. Take the time to do it right (particularly if you're working with hand tools and not one of those rightfully droolworthy desktop milling machines) and your friends will view you as the second coming of Tubal Cain. [Figure 04.28, Figure 04.29] You need about 3 / 4 " of 1" diameter brass rod, and 4 1 / 2 " of 1 4 " brass rod. And a fresh hacksaw blade or two. Get enough / material to allow for a few retries. This is a case where doing things in the right order makes the job significantly easier. Start with the shaft: using a ham- mer and anvil (you need an anvil, even if it's just a 5-pound jeweller's version) widen one end to 3 / 8 ", ensuring a sym- metrical profile. Depending on the brass alloy, you should be able to accomplish this cold.If cracking issues develop, pull out the propane torch and try again after heating your stock to a low glow. Proceed cautiously, avoiding the urge to over- heat the metal. Get someone to take pictures of you in black- smith mode; you'll want them in your dotage to impress the grandkids. When the shaft is shaped, drill out the 3 / 16 " hole for the mounting bolt and tap it for #8-32 threads, cut the shaft to length, and cut 1 / 4 -20 threads 5 / 16 " up the unwidened end. Use emery cloth to reduce the overall diameter of the shaft . by a miniscule amount -- less than 1 / 64 " You want the shaft to fit easily into the gap between the disks of the club mountng assembly. Cut a 9 / 16 " length of 1" brass rod. This is your club head blank. True up your cuts to 90 degrees (we'll add the pitch to the face in a later step), then drill and tap a 3 / 8 " 1 / 4 -20 threaded hole perpendicularly into the dead center of the length. Widen the top 1 / 16 " of the hole to a full 1 / 4 " as a countersink to accomodate the full unthreaded width of the shaft when it's threaded into place. When cutting threads into a blind (closed at one end) hole be prepared to deal with the metal cuttings produced by the tap: They have to go somewhere, which means drilling the hole you're tapping marginally deeper than you need, and removing the tap from the hole and shaking out the cuttings a few times during the thread cutting process. 121