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Chapter 4. Maple Mike: > The Baseplate and Chassis - Pg. 123

MAKE: PROJECTS Eccentric Cubicle The distance between the latchpoint centers and the rotational centerpoint of the assembly is determined by the location of the axle and trigger on the chassis. If you followed my drilling guide for the chassis, the latch points are 1" out from the center of rotation, center to center, positioned as illustrated on the detail diagram. If you changed the chassis dimensions in a fit of improvisational legerdemain, adjust the position of the latchpoints accordingly. The latchpoints are drilled at 3 / 8 " to a depth of 3 / 8 ". Drill 'em out, then hit the driv- ing range for a celebratory bucket of balls. The clubholder assembly is now complete. The Baseplate and Chassis I sized the base plate in this build "to fit." The width dimension is what I got when I butt-joined two pieces of in-house maple 3 / 4 " x (almost) 4" together (I said stop snickering, dammit), and the length dimension is what was needed to accommodate the footprint of the chassis and club head once the edges were beveled to 45 degrees. This came out as 6 3 / 4 " W x 9 1 / 2 " L, which is a generally reasonable footprint for a desktop mechanism. 3 You pay an arm and a leg for solid plank hardwood more than 4" in width: save your money and glue up the wood for your base. [Figure 04.13] Figure 04.12: Drilling the club attachment holes along the circumference of the clubholder assembly If you're using a table saw, drop a strengthening spline into the joint by setting both your blade height and fence position to 1 2 ". True up the facing edges of your two pieces of stock, then / run them edgewise through this setup, cutting a 1 / 2 " deep kerf 1 8 " wide. Back your fence off 1 8 " and repeat the process, which / / gives you a neatly aligned 1 / 4 " slot in each piece of stock. Cut a 1" wide slat of 1 / 4 " stock, do a test fit of the joint and adjust as needed, then spread on the glue and clamp it up. You and your L33t w00dw3rx0r 5k1lLL5. [Figure 04.14] Once the glue has cured, cut the blank to size. Try to keep the glue joint centered on the finished base. I mitered the sides 45 degrees; it's a nice touch, but not necessary (as is so often the case with artsy-fartsy nonsense). Use your own discretion. Realistically, as long as there's a flat spot under the clubhead, the rest of the base can look like whatever you want as long as stability isn't compromised. The chassis mounts to the base with glue, and six 1 / 4 " dowel pins for reinforcement. Mark and drill the dowel holes 3 A random sampling of telephones on sale at the Vancouver Flea Market returned an average width of 7", and an average length of 8 5 / 16 ". Good dimensions to know when designing ostensibly desktop-scaled things. in the base as illustrated, then put the (now completed) base aside for the moment. The chassis component needs a bit of finesse to accom- modate the geometry of the club assembly and still have a reassuring degree of structural integrity. If you want to duplicate the hipster po-mo curvilinear swoopiness of my chassis form factor, be prepared to become familiar with the singular creative joys of the French curve. Alternatively, basic functionality can be achieved with two lengths of 1" x 3" dowelled together and lopped off top and bottom at 30 degrees. [Figure 04.15] The swoopiness started with an attempt to superimpose a pair of circles onto the basic form, which proved to be unsatisfying, for various nonspecific reasons. Tweezing the initial effort with judicious use of the aforementioned French curve provided a more satisfying result to my eye, but you're welcome to go in any direction you personally want to pursue. [Figure 04.16] I strongly recommend fabricating the ancillary mecha- nisms to a semifinished state before you indulge your inner sculptor, though, primarily because drilling the requisite mounting and positioning holes in the chassis is a royal pain in the ass when performed on curved surfaces. Swoopi- 112