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Chapter 4. Maple Mike: > A Brief Moment to Get Our Bearings - Pg. 125

MAKE: PROJECTS Eccentric Cubicle ness is also likely to require you to modify some of the hole depths detailed. Do not panic. By the time you're ready to actually drill 'em out, you'll have become one with the sub- assemblies, and the specific nature of the modifications will be easily recognized. The cutting diagram shows the spacing, sizing and depths of the holes in question, as implemented sans swoop. There's a number of nested diameters to be drilled out with a certain degree of precision to ensure that the mechanisms work properly: unless you're particularly anal about sourcing your components precisely to what I used, you'll be substituting bits and pieces of your own into my ragtag collection of parts. This requires frequent bouts of adjusting-to-fit during the build. [Figure 04.17] Drill the holes in decreasing order of dimension; Forstner bits are the drills of choice for these holes (smooth walls, flat bottoms, remember?). You can expect to do some sanding to fit, particularly when reinforcing the trigger pin hole with 1 / 4 " ID brass tubing (an essential step to ensure strength and durability). Yes, I'm being deliberately obtuse to encourage you to Think While Making. CAUTION: While planning ahead is a given during any fabrication project, it's essential to be aware in real time Figure 04.16: Form in context of function: the quest for swoopiness. ! of the cause and effect of each step in the build procedure. The success of adventures in improvisational fabrication relies heavily on your ability to integrate decisions made "on the fly" with the entire mechanism. Hence the importance of the credo "Think While Making." Maple Mike is designed with the axle through the body, meaning that a bearing race is necessary on each end to keep things turning smoothly. The bearing race mounting holes are the critical consideration: if they're not absolutely parallel and properly centered on the axle passage, there's gonna be friction issues introduced into the mechanism. Accurate mea- surement and marking before drilling is essential if you plan on getting it right. Drill the bearing mounting holes on each side of the chassis first, then complete the job by drilling through the body with a 3 8 " bit to form the axle passage. Test-fit the bearings and axle / to check the accuracy of your work: minor angular/alignment discrepancies in the bearing positions are more easily com- pensated for before the wood has been finished. You may find yourself having to enlarge one of the holes to allow the races to line up properly, in which case you can fill in any gaps that may result with wood putty well before starting your finishing surface preparation. If, after drilling these holes, you decide to venture down the path of swoopiness, bear in mind that the rear bearing mount hole is almost certainly gonna take a hit, depthwise. Compensate for this impending loss while you still have the original hole in place as a pilot and deepen the mounting hole to post-swoop specifications. This is vastly preferable to having to try and center the bearing hole on the axle passage blind. When I pieced together the unfinished woodwork on this piece the inherent nonmodernness of the form factor was apparent. I capitalized on this germ of an idea by using a router to make the decorative ogees around the chassis edges. [Figure 04.18] Oooooooh . . . antiquey! Addition to functionality? Not a kipper. Addition to style factor? Huge. Attention to detail, kids; the little things count. Your mileage may vary. A Brief Moment to Get Our Bearings As noted, the clubholder assembly needs bearings to operate smoothly. We're using threaded rod as an axle, and it's gonna be under a lot of stress when loaded. The bearing system has to be done with a certain amount of care; otherwise, things start relinquishing their linearity. Once again, we turn to thriftshop rollerblades as a material source. You'll need two bearing races, two spacer bushings, and one plastic shoulder washer. These things are all spec'd to receive a 1 / 4 " axle shaft, so you'll also need a length of 1 / 4 - 20 threaded rod, a couple of washers, and some nuts. If you 114