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Chapter 4. Maple Mike: > The Club: Not That Thing You Clamp Onto Your Steering ... - Pg. 137

MAKE: PROJECTS Eccentric Cubicle Fit and install the brass reinforcing tube for the trigger pin exit hole. A press fit reinforced with a dab of cyanoacrylate will do. Shape the exposed tip of the tube to meet the chas- sis faces, then test mount the assembled trigger mecha- nism and ensure the trigger pin plays nicely with the rein- forcing tube. With the trigger mechanism set to fully retract the pin, do a final fit of the ferrule into the backside of the chassis, ensure that the cam lever is properly perpendicu- lar to the base, and mark the hole positions for the trigger mounting bolts using the predrilled holes in the chassis as guides. Remove and disassemble the trigger, drill the holes and tap them for #6-32 machine screws, then reassemble the mechanism and mount it in position on the chassis. On the example piece, I used acorn nuts and headless machine screws to give that much-loved light Victorian Industrial aes- thetic. Feel free to improvise. Position both sections of the tensioning mechanism, and (if you want to be really secure) drill the pilot holes for escutcheon pins to hold these components in place. If you do pin these components, remember to file the pointy bits of the pins flush with the inner walls of the components so the elas- tic runs freely through the holes. [Figure 04.39] The bungee attaches to the pulley with a #8 machine screw through a #8 brass washer, directly through the bun- gee elastic if you're using thick-diameter bungee (reinforce the fabric sheath with a few drops of cyanoacrylate to prevent unravelling), or serving as a loop-around or tie-off point for thinner-diameter elastic. You'll need a tee. I used a hex nut with the hole drilled out to a somewhat spherical shape to cup the ball securely, buffed up all shiny and purty like. Tie it all together and fire off a few practice shots now, check- ing for bind points and misalignments. When you're happy with the performance, disassemble the beast, finish the wood, buff up the brass, then put it back together again. [Figure 04.40] The example piece is finished with a bizarre combination of techniques I bodged together to give a "battered as hell, straight from the estate sale of Hamish McCrock, seven-time winner of the MacBeth Single Malt Invitational" kinda look. After surface prepping the wood down to 600 grit, I started by dyeing the wood mauve with concentrated beet juice, then I dyed it again with stupidly strong black tea. After the wood dried out again and stopped smelling I went over the surface with fine-grade sandpaper, added equal portions of burnt umber and lampblack to 30 cut shellac and brushed on about 10 coats, with a light steel-wooling between each coat. After that lot set up, I buffed it out with a shoeshine brush, and fin- ished with a light wipedown of a generic paste floor wax. It's a damned ugly finish, but contextually it rawks relentlessly. Figure 04.36: Accurately shaping and positioning the front-side bungee guide is one of those "attention to detail" issues that enhances the strength and performance of the mechanism. Yeah, it's finicky, but much less of a pain in the ass than replacing the axle every couple of days due to excessive bending. Figure 04.37: Vastly over-shaped, but nonetheless effective. 126