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Chapter 4. Maple Mike: > The Club: Not That Thing You Clamp Onto Your Steering ... - Pg. 133

MAKE: PROJECTS Eccentric Cubicle In a perfect world, your shaft will thread into the hole in the club head and cinch in tightly with the mounting hole of the shaft exactly perpendicular to the faces of the club head. It ain't a perfect world. Plan on adjusting the thread length of your shaft a few times until you're close, then rely on thread-locking glue or cyanoacrylate to chemically cinch your joint. Another option is to thread enough of the shaft to accommodate a locknut before the head is screwed on, then cinch down the locknut to secure the joint. I'm ambivalent about this method, due to the weakening of the shaft induced by cutting threads into it. It's your call. The club mounts with an 8-32 bolt, which need a bit of modification. Run a 1" machine screw through one of the mounting holes in the clubholder assembly, with a washer fore and aft and a nut on the back face. Mark the section of bolt exposed between the two clubholder disks with a perma- nent marker. Remove the bolt, and file off the threads in the section that you just marked so that the club shaft swings freely on the axis of the mounting bolt. Right now your club resembles a brass lollipop: a thick metal disk on a thick metal stick. You need to lop off the bot- tom part of the head parallel to the base, in context of the 30 degree backslope on the shaft. What do you think the chances are of your assembled chassis/club holder assembly actually presenting a 30 degree angle vis-à-vis the horizontal plane of the base? Mine was pretty accurate at a bit under 31 degrees. The error is introduced into the system by the flex in the bearing races (small but noticeable over length) and the flex of the joint connecting the club shaft to the mounting assembly. Whip out your protractor and square and double-check the swing plane angle on the complete assembly, then mark the hori- zontal plane onto the face of your clubhead. You'll want at least 1 / 4 " of clearance available between the bottom of the club and the baseplate to allow for some kind of tee contriv- ance to hold the ball. [Figure 04.30] Carefully cut the clubhead along the chord that marks the horizontal plane. Use a hacksaw to get close, then a file or emerycloth equipped disc sander to true up the angle. Once this horizonal plane is accurately established, go back to the file and/or sander to form the 7.5-degree loft angle into the leading face of the clubhead. In a real golf bag, a loft angle this low would normally be found on a driver, where an optimized energy transfer vector is preferable to a rapid ascent trajec- tory. If you're having trouble getting your shots up in the air and out of the extreme rough that is your cubicle, you'll want to look at increasing the loft angle substantially, up to as much as 60 degrees. As there's no one around to argue with me, I have determined this club to be a Brassy Cleek. Figure 04.29: Brutishly elegant: The Eccentric Genius Brassy Cleek. Anyway, once you're finished the shaping process (what- ever that shape may turn out to be), lap the surfaces smooth and shiny with various grades of emery cloth, steel wool, and buffing compound. Now, if you could make another one just like it, except about ten times bigger and equipped with a virgin eland skin leather grip, I have absolutely no doubt you could convince some fairway-bound richfella to part with about 800 clams for it. [Figure 04.31] Nah. Too easy. After that lot, the bungee tensioning mechanism is . . . er . . . a snap. I spec'd capacity for up to 5 / 16 " diameter elastic into the original design, primarily because that was the larg- est diameter bungee I had around when I was drawing it up. The goal is to be able to guide the elastic onto the pulley, easily stretch tension into it, and securely lock that tension in place. What I ended up with to perform this mundane but essential task is a truly classic overwrought "Eccentric Genius" bodge job execution of a basic screw-the-knob-down pinch mecha- nism. Illustrated are: 1. The bit you pull on to increase the tension: I used a brass end cap for ½" "PEX" PVC residential plumbing pipe with the locking ridges filed off; I drilled a 7 / 64 " hole through the 122