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Chapter 4. Maple Mike: > The Clubholder Assembly - Pg. 122

Maple Mike Figure 04.10: Out of the clamps and ready to drill: the nearly completed clubholder assembly Figure 04.11: Reprazentin' da long an' da short . . . yo. spaced at 30-degree intervals. Maple Mike has a trigger based on a spring-loaded 1 / 4 " brass rod that slots into a latch hole when the mechanism is locked 'n' loaded. Retracting the rod releases the mechanism. The three latchpoints allow a modicum of control over the range of motion of the clubholder. Effective, and 45 percent less crude than usual. As noted, I'll generally take adjustability wherever I can find it: five club mounting points spanning either side of dead bottom bring a bit more control over the power stroke into the mechanism. You could easily increase that number/range should you feel the urge, but I don't recommend spacing the club mount holes any closer than 7 1 / 2 degrees: The possibility of material failure and subsequent high-speed club displace- ment through your brand-new 30" monitor isn't worth the risk. (But if by chance it does happen, try to get video, wouldja?) Due to the stress on the materials under load, I would not advise adding more latchpoints for the trigger. Assuming that workshop pixies didn't mess things up when you weren't looking, you have a near-complete clubholder assembly with the bungee mount point situated where it oughta be, contextually. If not, feel free to utter many cuss words as you attempt to redrill the mount hole in the right spot. The club mounting holes occur at 7 1 / 2 degree intervals inset half an inch from the rim. You did remember to mark dead bottom on the clubholder, didn't you? Approach the task of drilling the club mount holes in whatever manner you prefer, bearing in mind that it's essential that they are absolutely perpendicular to the face of the clubholder, and pass cleanly through both faces of the assembly: Personaly, I marked out the angles, jigged the clubholder to the table of my drillpress with a piece of threaded rod, and had the holes drilled in about five minutes. Heretically, 2 I cut #8-32 threads into the mounting holes. When the club is mounted properly with a machine screw and nut it's a very secure attachment. [Figure 04.12] 2 As mentioned, cries of outrage from the traditional woodworking community aside, cutting threads into hardwood with machine taps is an entirely workable solution. My experience has been that cutting the threads, as opposed to pressure forming them with a woodscrew, ends up being a more resilient method. The fibre mashing caused by a woodscrew compromises the material integrity in a wider radius. This works in endgrain, too. Really want a strong-ass endgrain cinch with a machine screw? Cut your wood glue with 30 percent water and plop a drop into the hole before you set your screw. The dilution helps penetration, and when it's set, you have a mighty grip, as the grain structure has been plasticised by the glue. 111