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Chapter 10. Hammerhead Live: > Control Panel - Pg. 345

MAKE: PROJECTS Eccentric Cubicle Figure 10.63: Ladies and gentlemen, please put your hands together repeatedly and enthusiastically for the hardest working mechanism in Making . . . they call it MISTER Primary Mechanism. Welcome, please . . . the Lever. brass tubing to length, and drilling across the radius at the 2¼" point with a 1 / 8 " bit. Assemble all seven hammer arms, and install them on the deck; if you're following my cutting diagram, this entails marking the locations of the mounting ferrules on the deck and drilling a 1" hole 3 / 8 " deep at each location. The ferrules slot into the holes and are screwed in place from the under- side. Don't cinch the screws down completely yet. There's undoubtedly a spate of angular adjustment forthcoming during tune-up, after which you can lock down everything as tightly as you want. Control Panel Figure 10.64: Overhead spycam view of the device in question. Marvel at the positional versatility of the lever assembly. The control panel for Hammerhead is thankfully a spartan affair: a power switch and a mo' faster knob is all that's needed, a control layout which usually implies minimum fiddly bits, maximum artsy-fartsy nonsense. In the case of this build, only half of the preceding statement was accurate. The drill speed control is a pulse width modulation circuit, which is needed to maintain motor torque at low revs. It's a transistor, a cute-as-a-button little heat sink, a couple of caps and a couple of resistors, with the trigger itself housing a wussy-assed little molded-into-the-plastic linear pot. I could have just wired a real potentiometer into the circuit, but hon- estly, what fun is that? Typically, I opted to mount the trigger mechanism itself in a box and fabricate a cam-based actuator to mechanically move the trigger through a musically realistic range of speeds. [Figure 10.65] Yeah, I know: I'm nuts. But it's a damned sweet mechanism. As Maximum Artsy Fartsy was by this time more-or-less imperative, once the controls were boxed up I added art deco inspired knobs 'n' shit, and mounted the whole damned out the flexibility factor, it wouldn't be an enormous amount of work to fabricate adjustable-length hammer arms. Couple those with the adjustable-position mounting ferrule modifi- cation that I outlined earlier and you'd have an emminently adaptable mechanism. Hammerhead is easily adapted to use just about anything as a beater. If you can drill a 3 / 8 " hole in it, it'll fit on the end of the arm. I've used miniature brass tack hammers, sections of 1" dowel, craft balls, the previously illustrated Smiley Face superballs and honkin' big squishy rubber balls as beaters to great effect. If you're after a more traditional 5A drumstick sound, just chop the tip off a drumstick and sand down the shaft to let it fit into the end of the hammer arm. It can press- fit into place, or be secured with a set screw. Once you've decided on the lengths you'll be using, fabri- cating the hammer arms is just a matter of cutting the 3 / 8 " 334