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Chapter 10. Hammerhead Live: > The Event Pins - Pg. 353

MAKE: PROJECTS Eccentric Cubicle Figure 10.76: Camouflaging the humble stomp switch Figure 10.77: Inner cup and outer cap, all fluxed up and ready for soldering I'd never actually used a Minwax product before. This one is their "Red Mahogany" stain/sealer compound. Brush it on, wipe it off, let it cure overnight, then apply the topcoat of your choice. (In this case, I used that paste wax stuff your mom uses on the hardwood floors. It's pretty rancid smelly glorp, the Minwax, but it works okay.) You'll have to disassemble the mechanism to 10.77, Figure 10.78] Wiring is a no-brainer; you'll need to run do the surface prep and finishing. Buff up the metalwork while you're waiting for the a four-conductor lead between the control Figure 10.78: The finished finish to cure, and fabricate the fiddly little panel and the battery pack/drive train area. power switch: more bits used to get Hammerhead to actually As for the rest of the packaging of the con- camouflage. More Maximum hit stuff. trol panel, you're on your own. Get creative. Artsy Fartsy. You'll want a full set of hammers, a set of [Figure 10.79] plus-size hammers, and a set of ball ham- Interfacing the brass gooseneck with the mers, which are drilled out craft balls. Tap the 3 / 32 " holes to control panel was simpler than anticipated, as it came pre- 3 8 -24 threads. It was just a matter threaded at each end with / accept 6-32 machine screws. of wandering around a scrap yard with calipers and a thread You're well advised to hit the local dollar store and snag a gauge until I found premade components with the right mittful of kid's rubber balls in assorted sizes and densities. threading. In this case, the bases from run-of-the-mill candle When you get home, drill 3 / 8 " x ½" deep mounting holes in them holders filled the roles admirably. All that was needed was to and add them to your stash of potential beaters. [Figure 10.83] drill mountng screw holes around the edge of each base for mounting hardware. Typically, I couldn't leave well enough alone, and upped the steampunk quotient by adding a few stacked brass washers to each junction to simulate heat sink The last thing you need to fabricate is the event pins. They're ¾" long sections of ¼-20 threaded rod with an acorn nut fins. [Figure 10.80,Figure 10.81, Figure 10.82] Before undertaking the final tuneup of the mechanism, on one end. They screw in to the holes on the pin drum. do whatever woodfinishing you feel is necessary. I used a The actuator blocks ride up them as the drum rotates, then commercial finishing product on this one, primarily because fall back down, initiating the actual stroke of the beater. I found a piece of brass tube that press- fitted over the switch pad, did a brute force solder job to mount it in the center of a garden hose cap, then drilled out the center and added the copper rivet detailing. The last step was grinding off the knurling for a smooth side surface, and finding a 1¼" washer to use as a bezel. [Figure 10.76, Figure The Event Pins 342