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Chapter 10. Hammerhead Live: > The Actuators and Their Rack - Pg. 320

Hammerhead Figure 10.09: Pulley components, in poplar, prior to glue-up. Ya know, try as I might, I just can't for the life of me get enthusiastic about alliteration as a literary device. quential, as long as they're 3 5 / 8 " long: They're a useful short- cut, but make sure they don't end up glued in to the assem- bly. [Figure 10.12, Figure 10.13, Figure 10.14] Getting them out is a real pain in the ass. Cough. When the rack is out of the clamps, position and glue the horizontal reinforcement pieces as shown in the cutting diagram. The bottom ones don't necessarily have to have a triangular profile; I just happened to have some scrap wood in that shape in the wood crib. The reason they're there is to widen the mounting footprint of the rack, so it's a good idea to set a few dowels to strengthen the joint. The top horizontals must be parallel to the axle; they're intended as mounting points for any movement dampeners the mechanism might happen to need during tune-up. Dowel them if you want to, but it's not necessary. Rough out the actuator blocks for the actuator levers from ¾" hardwood stock and drill out the mounting holes to 3 / 8 " and the lock screw holes to 7 / 64 ". [Figure 10.15] Forstner bits (even criminally dull ones like mine -- note the scorching of the wood) can cut nice clean holes into