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Chapter 2. Active Deskchop: > The Lunette - Pg. 41

MAKE: PROJECTS Eccentric Cubicle nicely symmetrical slats by hand. Do the glue-ups in stages to ensure solid, flush alignment of one slat with the main riser of the trestle, then attaching the second slat, using scraps of the metal you're using for your blade as spacers. [Figure 02.06] Wrap each spacer with a single layer of masking tape to provide a bit of blade clearance after the fact. Use a reasonable number of clamps, deal with glue spills promptly, and remember to adjust related measurements appropriately to compensate for the modified dimensions. That thing on a guillotine that the poor sod's neck goes into is called . . . The Lunette Figure 02.07: Say "yes" to circular lunette holes. Fabrication requires you to rough out both the top and bottom sections of the assembly, then temporarily join the two before drilling the main lunette opening and the guide holes. [Figures 02.07, 02.08] Why? A true circular hole looks better, which means "remove the kerf then drill the hole." Some folks would call it nitpicking. To me, it's attention to detail, and in this case it's not a difficult thing to achieve. Sand out any machining marks and surface blemishes on the lunette components with 150-grit sandpaper, then glue up the trestle assembly. [Figure 02.09] I will not insult your intelligence by reminding you to use a square and many clamps. Put it aside to cure overnight, and carry on. When it's out of the clamps, mark and drill the holes for the dowels that strengthen the riser to crossbar joint. Cut the dowel pins a bit long, and taper one end slightly for easier insertion. There's no end of suggested methods of applying the glue to dowel pins. I usually drop a dot of glue onto the back of a playing card and roll the pin through it a few times to pick up a thin coat, then tap it into place with a leather-padded hammer. Let the glue cure, then cut the dowel flush with your Kugihiki and sand out any surface irregularities. [Figure 02.09] The Baseplate The baseplate of the mechanism is composed of big flat wooden planes. You'll need circles 6" and 4" in diameter x 3 / 8 " thick. How you come up with these bits is entirely up to you. With a bit of redesign, you can eliminate them altogether, but what fun is that? I approached the matter by ripping a section of my remaining stock edgewise; after sanding (and accounting for the width of the kerf removed), I had two pieces of maple 3 / 8 " x 3 1 / 2 " x 12". I could just as easily have ripped a succession of 3 / 8 " x 12" x 7 / 8 " slats from the edge of the stock, but I liked the grain structure of the face of the stock. Either way, glue-up is necessary. If this were a full-size Figure 02.08: The lunette assembly in detail 30